Got the BADGE !!!!

Finely after three years searching everywhere for the grille Badge, I saw on facebook marketplace that Michael R in US parted out an RO 1458. And yes he had a Badge (and also the three unique screws for the orange plastic cover sheets that I also missed) for my jukebox.

As the Badge are hard to find the price can sometimes be high, but the price Michael asked was resonably. The US postal cost to ship from US to Sweden was however not so resonable :-(

Anyway here it is, after water-sanding and polishing it looks great!

Mounted on the grille!

And the three screws!

Last post, now it's finished!

Finely........ I'm finished, and everything work great!

See Ya!

Dome glass

Sorry for not updating this blog for a while, but I will try to finish it now with some photos of the last steps.

The dome glass have been missing from beginning. I thougt it would be a piece of a cake to get a new glass, but it was impossible to find any glass at all! So I had to create a "glass" my self.

I bought a 4 mm thick SAN plastic sheet and made a curved template of wood (dont have any photos of it). Then I cut the plastic to the correct dimention and fixated it on the template.  I warmed the plastic carfully with my heat gun and let the plastic be bolted to the template for 4 weeks. I ended up with a pretty decent curved plastic sheet, not perfect but good enough!

Meanwhile waiting for the plastic to take the correct form, I made a Photoshop print file with the text 120, HI-FI and the large V-shape,  only the white, black and red colors was used here and the label was mounted to the backside of the plastic sheet.

If anyone needs the Photoshop files I can provide them, just make a note in this blog.

Here are my airbrush stuff which I used to paint the front top layer gold color with.

You can also see the Frisket masking film used to cut out the text "120". 

It took hours to make a perfect cutout, if you miss, there will be a hairline in the SAN plastic not possible to remove later!

Close up of the gold text & bottom line.

Of cource the gold text will be fragile but after hardening it seems to be quite ok.

Now it really looks like a real doome glass!

I also made this label.

 The dull & scratchy anodized aluminum frame was polished to gloss.

 Sorry but I dont have any photo on the finished doom glass, will upload it later.......

Turntable mech cover

The mech cover was flaking and looked dull so I decided to remove all paint and then polish the cover, after that I made mirrored water slide decals and finely I painted the cover from the backside with two colours, silver and green.

 This work was a really pita and took me a couple of weeks.

I used solvent (isopropyl) for removing the paint and it worked well for me on this application.
You have to be very careful when selecting solvent as most of them will affect the plastic, but this one worked fine!

After cleaning I polished the covers in and outsides.

Here are the mirrored labels, I scrapped a lot of them before I succeeded.

Two of the three water slide decals on place.
Not perfect, but good enough.

On the backside I first filled the stars with silver paint using the smallest brush I could find.
I painted the stars at least 20 times before I was satisfied and the paint was thick enough.

Then I airbrushed the inside (this was the easy part).

This looks really good.....at least from the backside :-)

Close up photo of one star. Looks good from the outside too!

Mech cover mounted and tone arm polished!

New DJ cartridge

This cartridge can handle 5-6 gr of tacking force.

Not as much as Rockola recomend wich is around 8-9 gr.

As the cartride was much higher then the original I had to gring down the two small screw towers inside the tonearm.

New design of the tonarm switch

As I have installed a new modern DJ cartridge with "low" tracking force 5 gr a new lead out switch solution was needed.

The lead out leaf switch pushes to hard (sideways) on the tonearm so I had to have a replacement switch not touching the tone arm mechanism. 

A proximity switch with a relay PCB card was the solution.

I 3D printed a nylon bracket for the proximity switch.

Here is the bracket the proximity switch senses at about 2mm distance.

Upper dome switches

WOW, someone is reading my blog, and giving me coments 😊 now I have to update it!

The three upper switches was in quite good shape so I just just brushed and cleaned them.

Some of the small contact fingers needed an minor alignment.

I bought a new select glas as the old was crap!